Sugar Gliders - Pocket Pets

Many people are searching for different means to have pets. Dogs and cats are not always the best choice of pets for everyone. Here is an amazingly different type of pet. A Pocket Pet! A Sugar Glider.

The Sugar Glider is a popular pet because of its sweet, lively, inquisitive nature, but is illegal in certain jurisdictions, such as California.

Do gliders make sounds?

Sugar gliders are very social creatures and make many sounds, including barking, crabbing, clicking, and chattering.

Are gliders rodents?

No. Sugar gliders are marsupials (mammals that carry their young in a pouch); they are in the same family as the koala bear and the kangaroo.

I have gathered some information, and done some research. Perhaps this will be the answer for many wishing to own a different kind of a pet.

Sugar Gliders make excellent pets. They adapt very readily to captivity and can develop very strong relationships with their human keepers. This is why they would be great for people who cannot have big pets. They are small in size, are very intelligent and love to play. They are much smarter than a hamster or rat and have a much longer life-span, most living to be 10 or older if taken care of properly. Although nocturnal, this can be of benefit.

Sugar Gliders love human attention. And they really are so cute. They also develop very strong bonds with their owners.

An adult sugar glider is approximately 11 inches long from his nose to the tip of his tail, but most of that (6 or 7 inches) is tail. They have similarities with our flying squirrel. The fur is very soft. Here is more information I have researched.

It is around 16 to 20 cm (6.3 to 7.5 in) in length, with a slightly longer tail, and weighs between 90 and 150 grams (3 to 5.3 oz). The fur is generally pearl grey, with black and cream patches at the base of the pink ears. The tail tapers only moderately and the last quarter of it is black, often with a white tip. The muzzle is short and rounded. Northern forms tend to be brown colored rather than grey and, as predicted by Bergmann's Rule, smaller.

The most noticeable features of its anatomy, however, are the twin skin membranes called "patagium"s which extend from the fifth finger of the forelimb back to the first toe of the hind foot. These are inconspicuous when the Sugar Glider is at rest it merely looks a little flabby, as though it had lost a lot of weight recently but immediately obvious when it takes flight. The membranes are used to glide between trees: when fully extended they form an aerodynamic surface the size of a large handkerchief.

Sugar Gliders can occupy any area where there are tree hollows for shelter and sufficient food. Their diet varies considerably with both geography and the changing seasons, but the main items are the sap of acacias and certain eucalupts, nectar, pollen, and arthropods. They are difficult to see in the wild, being small, wary, and nocturnal, but a sure sign of their presence is the stripping of bark and tooth marks left in the soft, green shoots of acacia trees.

Sugar gliders love human attention and they love to play. This is what makes them special. Make sure you bond with the little ones when you bring them home. Since they sleep in the daytime, you can bond with them by letting them sleep in your pocket, but don't sit on your glider! Sugar gliders will form very strong bonds with their owners. One article says that they love to play hide and go seek.

They love it when you come home at night; they are so excited to see you!

Please buy them from a reputable breeder. You can expect to pay from $200 to $400 for them. I recommend starting with a baby since they do form much stronger bonds with you. And as always, study and gather the right information to have a safe and healthy pet.

Posted by Ruth

www.happypetstop.com

Ruth is actively involved with the internet and she finds it very exciting. Her passions are people and pet health. She is a wife, a stepmom a dog owner and a business person. She is married for almost 30 years to Chris who has been, and still is, battling the monster MS. Two of her dogs are Certified Therapy Dogs. Her passions are health and fitness, especially as it pertains to the "over 40 crowd". Her About Page http://www.ruthsinformationabout.com/about-me.htm Her Pet Blog http://www.happypetstop.com/blog

Finding an Exotic Pet Vet

Just before you put the money on the counter for your new best friend - sugar glider - be sure that you already have found a veterinarian that will be able to take care of your sugar glider if something goes wrong.

The best thing is to ask other Sugar Glider owners and see what they can recommend. Try asking as many people as you can just to find and have a really long list of different vets that will be able to take care of your sugar glider if something wrong happens. The reason I recommend making a really long list is because some vets might not even look at small animals. That's okay - you still have 10-15 other ones to go to, right?

Now that your list is getting shorter and you liked few of those vets, call them and ask if they have training on sugar gliders. Are they trained with sugar gliders? What type of diet would they recommend? Do they have necessary equipment for small animals?

After these calls your list will probably be even shorter, but hey, that's expected to happen. And finally if you're satisfied with ones that are still on your list, visit them. I would really recommend you visiting your potential vets personally just to see how clean their facility is, how do they take care of small animals, do they record pets visit and are they comfortable if you have to leave your pet there?

Like I said before, take care of this business before you even go to look for your new best sugar glider friend. It's better to be safe than sorry. Looking for a vet when your sugar glider is sick and you have no idea what's wrong with it is not the best time.

But on the brighter note, a lot of experiments have been done with the same conclusion that might relieve you... Sugar gliders seem to be animals that are very healthy.

Michael Bolden has been caring for sugar glider for more than 15 years now. To learn more about finding exotic pet vet be sure to visit his website at: http://www.sugarglidertips.com

Sugar Glider Diet

Since they are omnivorous, they are fond of many different types of food including meat. Some of the foods that Sugar Gliders, in general seem to enjoy, are as follows, but NOT limited to:

Apples, applesauce (baby Food Formula Only), apricots, bananas, berries, bread, cantaloupe, carrots, cherries, corn, dates, dried fruit, eggs, fig, grapes, honey, honeydew, insects, lettuce (Romaine or leaf only, Head or Iceberg can cause diarrhea), meal worms, meats (low fat turkey, boiled, skinless chicken & feeder mice), melons, nuts (assorted, unsalted and raw), oranges, papaya, peaches (not the pits, they are toxic), peanut butter, pears, pineapple, plums, pure fruit juices, raisins, strawberries, sunflower seeds, sweet potatoes.

I do not suggest broccoli cauliflower, or cabbage due to the gas producing properties once ingested, no one likes to have gas, even Sugar Gliders.

One of the things that might work well for you is to have a few different containers and chop up different fruits and vegetables in each until they are full. Then all you have to do each night is to open the container(s) that you wish to feed from and pull cut a few of the pieces you wish to feed. I would like to add here that I consider it cruel not to feed some type of insect (at least) during the week. In the wild, they will eat fruits and animals and they should not be denied that while in captivity. It does not have to be done every day, but should be done often.

Sugar Gliders can gain weight more easily in captivity due to lack of movement that they would experience in the wild. Babies born to overweight parents can sometimes be born blind or with impaired vision caused by fatty deposits in their eyes. This can be corrected by a controlled diet and measuring weight with a small scale. One of the things that help cause this condition is by feeding to many nuts, which are high in protein and fat. To reduce their weight you need to reduce their fat and protein and try to increase their exercise. It may take a few weeks to bring down their weight.

Do not get frustrated when trying to feed your pet. They are peculiar with their feeding since they may willingly accept a food for a few days and then not take the same thing after a week and then eat it the following week. The bottom line is that they each have their own personality and tastes, and it will take time to find out what they like. You may find it easier to go to your local grocery store and buy a bag of frozen mixed vegetables and use these along with fresh fruit. You also need to make sure that your Sugar Glider has fresh water every day. Keep in mind that tap water may not be best since it is usually treated with chemicals to clean the water.

A couple of suggestions that I will make concerning any type of feed bowls would be that you should at least have a bowl that will not tip or spill easily. Most Sugar Gliders will tend to climb up on the bowl and set on the edge of the bowl. If the bowl is not heavy enough to support their weight, it will tip over and the food will spill either causing a mess or creating a situation where the food falls through the bottom of the age and the Sugar Glider will not be able to eat. Another suggestion that has worked well for me is to have a type of feed holder that hangs on the side of the cage. I have done this because as the Sugar Glider climbs around the cage, they will excrete and droppings fall to the bottom of the cage hitting whatever is in its way, including the food bowl. My feeders are located at the top of the cage with enough room for a Sugar Glider to sit up, on the edge, without being uncomfortable while eating. This keeps them from climbing above the food (most of the time) and lessens the chance that they will soil in their food.

A sample Glider formula that works well and is as follows:

Adult formula:

• 4-8 ounces Applesauce
• 1/2 cup Gerber dry cereal (for protein)
• 1/4 cup rice
• 1/4 cup oatmeal
• 1/4 cup honey
• 4 ounces plain non-fat yogurt
• 4 ounces isomil or ensure plus
• Apple or Orange juice to make soupy

Puree in blender until liquid form and put in ice cube trays and freeze and feed 1-2 times a week. Pull one out for an AM feeding and one for PM feedings. Discard after 5 hours. It is still a good idea to offer some type of solid foods for them too as this will help keep their teeth and gums clean and healthy.

Some people suggest feeding once a day at dusk, while others will feed twice a day. Which method you choose should be dependent upon your Sugar Gliders. Are they still hungry in the morning? Feed them a small amount in the morning or give them a little more in the evening. If I give too much food to mine, they tend to make a mess in their cage, so I do feed less at each meal, but fed twice a day. Try mixing up a few things that your Sugar Glider enjoys and are good for them and blending it together and freezing it. You can get a couple of ice cube trays fairly inexpensively and use those for freezing.

Michael Bolden has been caring for sugar glider for more than 15 years now. To learn more about sugar glider diet be sure to visit his website at: http://www.sugarglidertips.com

Consider a Sugar Glider As an Exotic Pet

Sugar Gliders are one of the coolest exotic pets you can buy. They are cute and cuddly and they seem to like people that are nice to them and feed them. Since they are very small, they don't eat much and they hardly take any care, like other exotic pets. Now, you must realize that not all jurisdictions allow sugar glider pets. Why you ask?

Well, if they get out, they can breed quickly and survive well in the wild, thus, they are considered invasive species in the wild and authorities often wish to prevent this scenario. What you may not realize is these little critters are not mammals, but rather marsupials and this means they carry their young in a pouch for the very early parts of their lives.

Why do they call them gliders? Well, because they can spread their legs and arms and the flaps in between act as a glider/parachute devise, where they can move from tree to tree. This helps them moves from place to place and evade predators.

They like to eat nectar like humming birds, but also eat fruit or even meat from small birds, eggs in nests or other very small rodents like mice and rats. They are extremely smart and very good and cunning hunters, despite being so cute.

Since the sugar gliders are so social, they make wonderful pets, but really prefer to be paired, not alone. Best of all they live longer than other furry creatures like rabbits and ferrets (12-15 years) and they are very playful and fun, exciting to watch, thus, they make a perfect pet. So, please think on this.

Lance Winslow - Lance Winslow's Bio. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/

Cleaning Sugar Glider Cages

If you think it's disgusting smelling, your sugar gliders probably think it's disgusting living in it. The cage will need to be completely cleaned out at least a once a week, maybe more if you have more than 2 sugar gliders. You will probably have to do a quick spot cleaning at least twice a week. A clean environment will keep them healthy.

If left in the cage for a long period, urine will begin to turn into ammonia, which is incredibly harmful to a sugar gliders respiratory system. Fecal matter, especially if it is an area where it is getting wet, can give rise to harmful bacteria that can be ingested or even inhaled making your sugar glider sick. Moist bedding or litter can cause fungus growth. A litter box or drop pan will help with feces. A clean cage will also help to make your home environment healthier and odor free. Remember that if you can smell dirty cages it is much more extreme and stressful to the animals living in them.

Step 1. Cleaning (removing visible dirt and debris) First, spray the cage with water to soften the residue. Then clean the cage by using an ordinary household soap such as dish washing liquid. A scrub brush and pressure nozzle for your hose will help you to dislodge stubborn debris from the cage and accessories. Small accessories can be soaked in a sink full of hot soapy water and scrubbed before disinfecting. This is only the first step in full cage cleaning.

Step 2. Disinfecting (destroying microorganisms or pathogens) Spray the cage and the accessories with your chosen disinfectant. Let the solution remain on the articles long enough to disinfect them (reading the directions will give the time it takes each particular product to do its job). These solutions can also be used on floors and walls around the cage as long as you rinse them well. After viral outbreaks use a cleaning agent that is specifically a virucide. Cleaning & Disinfecting Solutions (always rinse well)

• Dish washing soap - cleaner only
• Nolvasan (contains: chlorhexidine diacetate)-Bactericidal and virucidal
• Vinegar (contains: 5 % acetic acid) mildly bactericidal
• Hydrogen peroxide 3% (medical grade) - mildly bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal
• Hydrogen peroxide 35% (technical grade) - bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal)
• Citricidal (contains:grape seed extract) mildly bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal
• Household bleach (contains:5.25% sodium hypochlorite ) - bactericidal and virucidal
• Parvosol (contains: quaternary ammonium chloride) - bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal
• Antibacterial liquid soap- bactericidal
• Spectrosol (contains: quaternary ammonium chloride) - bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal
• Oxyfresh (contains: stabilized chlorine dioxide) - bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal

Note: Lysol contains phenols and is not recommended for cleaning cages or accessories.

Step 3. Rinsing Rinse the cage and all accessories thoroughly. Make sure that you can not feel or smell any residual cleaning solution. This is a very important step. Some of the cleaners can be harmful to your small pets.

Step 4. Drying You can either air dry the cage and accessories or wipe them down with a clean towel. Air drying in the sun is particularly good if you want to make sure all organisms are killed.

The Hospital Cage Extra attention must be given when cleaning the cage of a sick pet, especially if it is going to be used later to house healthy pets. Meticulous care also needs to be taken if parasitic infestation is involved. In these scenarios, use strong solutions that kill bacteria, fungus, and viruses. After sterilization rinse thoroughly, and sun dry. After an infectious illness any accessories made from wood, wicker, or grass should be discarded. After a parasite outbreak these porous items need to be thoroughly cleaned, sanitized, and not used for any other animals for a minimum of two weeks. Food dishes should be cleaned, disinfected and then run through the dishwasher. Water bottles need to be completely taken apart (be sure to remove the washer) and all parts cleaned and sterilized.

Fabric Accessories You will want to thoroughly clean all cloth items used for your pet on a regular basis. Change the pouches, cage sets, tray liners and other fabric items as they get soiled (in-between cage cleanings). Wash with hypo-allergenic soap in warm or hot water in your washing machine. To clean fabric accessories that are particularly soiled, used in a sick cage, or contaminated with parasites, add a small amount of bleach or Oxyclean and use hot water. When using bleach or another disinfectant rinse twice to be sure that all chemicals are removed. Drying these items in the dryer at a high temperature for a minimum of 20 minutes will aid in combating microorganisms and parasitic infestations. Cleaning Tips

• Avoid perfumed household cleaners
• Spot clean in-between cage cleanings
• Keep a smaller cage for your pets to go in during cleaning
• Always clean in a well-ventilated area away from your pets
• Remove all accessories and clean well
• Spray the cage with water to soften the debris before cleaning
• Be sure all debris is removed before disinfecting
• Leave disinfectant on for a minimum of 10 minutes
• Take extra care with disinfecting hospital cages
• Rinse carefully to remove all cleaning agents
• Dry cage before putting your pets back in
• Use direct sunlight to dry and sanitize whenever possible
• Always sanitize and refill water bottles and food dishes
• Clean nursery cages more often

The whole process could take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour each week, but remember it needs to be done. Just like you clean your shower and toilet, or wash the kitchen counters after cooking, sugar gliders need their cages as clean as possible because they can be messy and if that continues to build up, not only could it endanger them, over time it could possibly endanger your health as well.

For a complete guide to caring for Sugar Gliders, visit Sugar Glider Pet Guide. You will also find out more information regarding what states Sugar Gliders are legal in.

Things to Consider Before Purchasing a Sugar Glider

If you have ever gone to a pet store or a zoo and seen a sugar glider, you probably fell in love with these cute and interesting little creatures. Although many jurisdictions make it illegal to buy or to sell these sweet little animals, many people still find ways to purchase them as pets. The reality is you need to perform research and become knowledgeable prior to purchasing a sugar glider as a pet and, if you are serious about buying one, you should really consider all of the effort that goes into keeping one of these little cute little marsupials as a pet.

The Sugar Glider Diet

One of the most difficult aspects of keeping a sugar glider as a pet is giving it the proper diet. Unlike dogs and cats, you can't simply go to the store and pick up a bag of sugar glider food for your pet. In addition, sugar gliders cannot survive on a simple pellet food. Rather, they need to follow a somewhat complicated diet that involves eating a variety of different bugs such as grubs, mealworms and crickets.

Housing a Sugar Glider

In nature, sugar gliders live in the treetops and frequently glide over long distances during the nighttime in order to feed. Therefore, they need to have much larger cages than other creatures their size, such as gerbils, hamsters and ferrets. In fact, sugar gliders need a cage that is more like a small aviary that allows them to move around and to glide freely.

Sugar Glider Odor

Although they are cute and sweet looking, sugar gliders can be smelly animals. This is because they have special glands that allow them to emit a sent and to mark their territories. Although the smell is not as strong as that of other animals with these glands, such as ferrets and skunks, it can be irritating. In addition, they mark their cages with urine on a frequent basis, which means their cages can get quite messy and smelly in a short period of time.

Sugar gliders are also quite messy with their food as well as with their urine and bowel movements. In fact, it is not uncommon from them to play and run while also urinating or having a bowel movement. They will also through their food and waste out of their cages and have no problem with urinating and making other messes while they are being held.

Coping with the Noise

In addition to the odor, sugar gliders are also noisy animals. Since they are nocturnal, all of the noise they make can be really problematic when you are trying to get some sleep. Not only do they move around and play quite frequently during the night, they also verbalize with hissing and barking noises as well.

While sugar gliders can be great pets, it takes having the right type of temperament to keep a sugar glider as a pet. As a result, many are given up by their adoptive homes and sent to rescue shelters. Therefore, be certain you are ready for the responsibility of owning one of these little critters before you make the purchase.

CS Swarens is the CEO of Find a Pet Online. 800 998-7065

For additional information on dogs, cats, birds, horses, and exotic pets visit the internet's resource for pet classifieds

How to Choose a Sugar Glider Cage

If you're going to own a sugar glider, then you will certainly need a cage for it. There are a few things you need to consider before picking out your first one. This article will give you a few tips on how to choose a sugar glider cage.

Height

One of the first things you need to consider when choosing a cage is its height. Sugar gliders love to jump and climb around. Therefore, you need to make sure the cage has plenty of vertical space. Vertical space is more important than the amount of horizontal space. It's best that the cage is at least three feet tall.

Bars

You also need to consider the cage's bars. It's important that the bars are spaced no more than 1/2 inch to 1 inch apart. Wire mesh bars are best as they allow the glider to climb on them easily. If the cage you choose isn't wire mesh, then at least make sure it provides horizontal bars or platforms so the glider can use them to climb.

Material

A sugar glider cage can be made from various materials. If you're thinking about getting a cage with bare wire, you should know that it may irritate your pet's feet. Therefore, get a wire cage that's powder-coated or made from vinyl. They won't hurt your glider's feet and they'll also be easier for you to clean. It's best to avoid cages made from plexi-glass as your glider will scratch it up easily. Also, he won't be able to climb it, so you'll need to provide him with platforms or branches.

Security

Did you know that sugar gliders are pretty smart? Well, they are! You may be surprised one day to find that he has learned how to open his cage and let himself out. Try to find a cage that has a very secure latch that he can't learn to open easily.

These are a few tips for choosing a sugar glider cage. If this is your first time owning one, there are many things you need to learn about sugar glider care. So, click here now to continue learning important sugar glider information that you need to know